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4.5 out of 5 stars

AprilAire 700M Whole-House Humidifier

$280
$311.37 10% off Reference Price
Condition: New
Color: Gray
Size: 1800-5300 sq. ft.
Style: Humidifier
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Top positive review
99 people found this helpful
these should be manditory on all furnace installs. love this unit!
By Randy on Reviewed in the United States on November 4, 2013
OK, this is exact same as the automatic except it has the manual humidistat. I was a bit nervous about installing this because of how little room to install this. There is literally 1/2" between the wall and this now. But works amazing! Straight forward installation. Installed on the supply plenum. One thing, don't use the saddlevalve they give you. Go buy a sharkbite valve. Super easy to install with no soldering required. List of supplies used. 1. Metal tape (duct tape for the plenum but made of metal) 2. Tin snipe. (To cut the plenum) 3. 3/4" sheet metal drill bit (titanium or better) 4. Sharkbite valve (connect to water line. Just push pipe in both sides((1/2" osd)) 5. Sharkbite 1/2" to 1/4" on/off valve 6. 1/4" osd foggy plastic hose (connects to the water inlet on humidifier) 7. 1/2" clear tube (for the drainage tube on humidifier to drai ) 8. 18x2 thermostat wire, wire nuts, and plastic tube to hide wires. 9. 1/2" copper tube. Maybe need only 3"-5" (extends the sharkbite valve) 10. 20' outdoor extension drop cord (only if you don't have plug near supply plenum) 11. Level 12. Electric drill 13. Yellow handle tin snips (yellow means cuts strait lines or curved) 14. #8 self tapping sheet metal screws. 1", and only 4-6 is needed. 15. Pipe cutter 16. 13mm open socket wrench Shut off breaker to furnace. Do not install before you do this. So, the toughest part on the install was cutting the plenum. I didn't have enough room for the drill to drill hole, but was creative and got one made. The instructions are the template for the humidifier base. Used a level and made sure it was on level. I chose to use the supply plenum to install so I wouldn't need to use hot water. Save a few gallons of water daily. After the square hole was cut, I used a hammer and pliers to make sure the edges were even. Then mounted the base, and screwed it in. Next, used the metal duct tape (do not use regular tape, must be the metal kind) to tape around the base. Take your time and make it look good. Next, wiring. The bottom of the base has two brown wires. Using the 18x2 thermostat wires, connect one brown wire to the common circuit on the furnace circuit. Should be labeled C. Next, connect the other wire to the W (24v aux). Connect that wire to one terminal on the humidistat. First mount the humidistat where you want it. After the the power wire is connected to the humidistat, add another wire to the other post in the humidistat. Doesn't matter which one you use. Take that wire and connect it to the other brown wire on the base of the humidifier. Next is the water. If you have a water softener, you will be using the copper line going from there to the water heater. Shut off the main valve and grab a small bucket (water will drain from the line) and place under where you want to install the sharkbite adaptor. Use a black marker and mark the pipe. Then measure 1" both left and right. This is where you want to make your cut. Cut the pipe in both spots so you have a 2" space between ends. Slide the sharkbite adaptor in between and press the adaptor hard in each side. It will lock in to place. Cut a 3"-5" piece of spare copper pipe and push in the middle of the adaptor. Then attach the 1/2" to 1/4" sharkbite valve. Push it hard and it snaps in. Take off the 1/4" but and the copper coupling inside. Slide the foggy 1/4" tube through the but and then the coupling and in to the valve. Using a #13 wrench, tighten the but down as much as you can without breaking it. Connect the other side of the tube to the bottom of the humidifier base. Using the same method of through the but and coupling, then tighten down a lot. Otherwise this will leak. Next connect the 1/2" drain line. Run it from the bottom of the humidifier base to your drain near the water heater or softener. If there isn't one, you will need to buy a pump and attach it to there and pump it out of the house or to a drain. Last, use the extension cord, connect from outlet to plug on the humidifier. Use the black tube to conseal the wires if you want. Turn on the water to make sure no leaks. If there are some at the valve and base of humidifier, tighten those nuts down. It will stop leaking. May seem like you will break the sylanoid on the base, but it won't. Turn on the furnace breaker, set the heat to high to you can monitor the humidifier. It should be working fine. Alternative install. Use the transformer and connect to the HUM spot on the circuit board and the other to Neutral, the the humidistat to one of the back side and other goes direct to the brown wire on the base of humidifier. I am not a HVAC tech. So if you have questions I can't really help. But installing yourself will take 3-5 hours depending on trips to the hardware store. It will also save you between $350-$500. The total cost of the parts were right around $100. But because I didn't have the drill bit, the pipe cutter, yellow tin snips, metal tape, extension cord, or tubing. If you have those, the sharkbite adaptors will be around $25. So far we have felt an immediate impact on the air quality. Well worth the price.
Top critical review
20 people found this helpful
and it's fairly easy to install thanks to the very clear instructions
By coralia hanson on Reviewed in the United States on December 4, 2014
While this humidifier does work, and it's fairly easy to install thanks to the very clear instructions, I have one major complaint about the unit itself: It leaks a good amount of air between the humidifier unit and the HVAC trunk mount. Where the humidifier snaps and mounts into place, the plastic between the mount and the unit has a little bit of warp. This warp makes a gap which allows the pressurized air from your HVAC feed trunk to escape, thus warming your basement instead of your house. Call me anal or paranoid, but I do a great deal of work to insure that my home is properly heated. I taped up the mount with 3M metal duct tape and made sure that it was air tight to my trunk. But once I snapped in the unit and let the furnace run, I could feel warm air pumping out of the joint between it and the mount. I've cured this problem with some easily removed packing tape around the perimeter of this joint. But still- this is a problem that I shouldn't have to deal with on a HVAC product. Pros: I have this hooked up to my 2nd gen Nest thermostat. (one terminal of the humidifier to the C on my furnace control - be sure it has enough power to flip the solenoid on and off, and one wire to the * terminal of the Nest) and it works when the Nest calls for it and heat. You don't have to worry about wiring in a relay for this unit since the fan motor is powered by 120VAC. It makes an install with a Nest very easy. Installation instructions are wonderful. They are thorough and lead to a successful install. Give yourself 3 hours of time to cut open the trunk carefully and plumb the water. Be sure it's warm enough outside to keep your furnace off for that amount of time otherwise the wife will complain :)

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