Top positive review
120 people found this helpful
Nice HD Webcam! Here's some tech details.
By Harold Melton on Reviewed in the United States on May 22, 2012
I've been testing and using the Logitech C920 for a week now. This is really a nice little camera! It takes good, sharp video, and the Logitech Webcam Software (LWS), works fine, though a bit limited in settings. For those wanting some tech specs, I ran a bunch of tests and analyzed the files with MediaInfo. LWS provides 4 modes: 360p (640x360 WMV), 480p (864x480 WMV), 720p (1280x720 MP4/AVC), and 1080p (1920x1080 MP4/AVC). In "Preferences," under the "Quick Capture" tab, it provides 3 audio and 3 video quality settings: Audio: Good (16) -- 16kHz at 20kbps (mushy) Better (32) -- 32kHz at 48kbps (fine for voice) Best (48) -- 48kHz at 191kbps (DVD quality) -- These only matter at 360p and 480p. -- In the higher modes, the audio (AAC) is always 48kHz at 99kbps (vbr), no matter where you set the audio quality setting (bug?). kbps and frame rates : ( 360p WMV / 480p WMV / 720p MP4-AVC / 1080p MP4-AVC ) Standard (small file): 549 at 15 / 1155 at 15 / 2000 at 30 / 3000 at 30 High Q (medium file): 943 at 15 / 2848 at 15 / 3000 at 30 / 4000 at 30 Lossless (large file): 1723 at 15 / 3848 at 15 / 4000 at 30 / 6000 at 30 -- In 360 and 480, the video bit rate will vary quite a bit depending on the amount of motion in the video. Frame rate is constant at 15. -- In 720 and 1080, the bit rate is constant, and the frame rate is constant at 30, tho MediaInfo sometimes shows it as variable. So you can see the highest quality mode is 1080p at 6000kbps at 30fps, which is probably what you wanna use if you're gonna pull it into an editor, and then spit out the results at say, 2000, which makes a good quality video at a reasonable file size for uploading to YT, etc. I don't know what they mean by "lossless," because what the software calls "lossless" is a mere 4-6 Mbps, highly compressed by the camera. But it's more than good enough. For the two AVC modes, the camera is putting out profile Baseline @ L4.0, no CABAC, 1 Reference Frame, CBR, and CFR. The color model is YUV 4:2:0, 8-bits, Progressive, as expected. This profile is widely compatible with many consumer HD video devices and software players. If you're gonna simply downsample the bitrate with Handbrake, you should make a profile that matches what the hardware in the camera puts out. Make your Handbrake (v0.9.6+) profile like this: -f mp4 -O --crop 0:0:0:0 --strict-anamorphic -e x264 -b 1500 --vfr -a 1 -E copy:aac -B 0 -6 auto -R Auto -D 0 --gain=0 --audio-copy-mask none -x bframes=0:8x8dct=0:cabac=0:weightp=0:ref=4:psy-rd=1.00,0.15 --verbose=1 (where -b = bitrate and -E copy:aac = audio pass-through). Note that I set RefFrames to 4, as it falls back to L3.1 if the ref is left at 1. What about other video resolutions and modes? Running other capture software, like BB Flashback or AVS Video Recorder, you can pick all resolutions from 160x90 to 2304x1536 (at 2 fps) and the C920 will switch to any of them -- so, yes, it will do all the 4:3 modes like 640x480, but not with LWS. There's no reason they couldn't put some common 4:3 modes in it, because the camera will do'em all, and wide-screen isn't always desirable. Does the camera put out raw video in the non-AVC modes, like a regular webcam? In LWS my processor (dual 3.06GHz) runs about 25% capturing 1080p, but about 45% capturing 480p. In other capture software, capturing 1080p in mjpeg or mpeg2/xvid maxes out the processor and stutters badly. So it would appear that the camera's hardware compression only kicks in with 720p and 1080p AVC, and a good thing it does! My computer (and its USB2) won't handle raw 1080p/30 video. Snapshots, using LWS (all JPG, Q unknown and not settable): Low: 1920x1080 (2MP, 472kB), a bit blurry in the details Med: 2304x1536 (3MP, 649kB), the native resolution of the image sensor Lrg: 3280x1845 (6MP, 1047kB), interpolated Max: 5168x2907 (15MP, 1984kB), interpolated -- I can see no detail difference in medium, large, and max, so interpolation is useless (as expected). -- I took the sharpest snapshot at 2304x1536 (its native res.) in another capture program that will save a BMP (uncompressed). Indeed, I took that and up-scaled it to 15MP in IrfanView, then saved it as 80% jpeg, and it's half the file size and better quality than what LWSs "Max" setting provided. IrfanView took the 45 meg BMP down to a 1 meg JPG (at 80% Q) and I can't see any difference in details. Now for the little complaints: None for the camera, but the LWS software could use some 4:3 resolutions and finer-grained controls, like setting the bit-rate of the audio and tweaking some AVC profile settings, more video containers like AVI and MOV, and an uncompressed (BMP) option for snapshots. RightLight: Doesn't seem to do anything. Either the Exposure and Gain are in Auto or not, and you have to uncheck RightLight to uncheck Auto. In auto, the exposure slider usually stays at 9 (of 14) clicks, and the gain varies. Fast motion is nice and smooth, though blurry. With ample lighting, you can improve the video a little by going to manual and putting the exposure at about 5 clicks and then up the gain for a normal picture, and there will be much less motion blur, just like setting a faster exposure on any camera. I found one little bug in LWS: When you put the Gain in manual, it will slowly creep down, about 1% per second. It's annoying. Auto White Balance: Makes you look cold and dead. Set your lights, hold a white card about a foot in front of it, then turn off AWB, and you'll look about right. Also, reducing the Color Intensity a bit makes faces look more natural. YMMV, so don't be afraid to put it all in manual and set it just right for your lighting. And remember, no "auto" stuff will completely fix every lighting situation. I'm using a 45-watt, 5500K, CRI-91 full-spectrum Alzo CFL, and still need manual tweaking. RightSound: A simple auto-volume that cuts the volume to about half if you get too loud. Seems to take about 1-2 seconds to respond. LWS has no VU bars or mic test, so you have to run something else to see what it's doing. There is a mic level slider in Preferences and I found it to be too loud at the default mid-point; putting it at about 35% made the audio better. There are no audio equalization settings, and it's just a bit "boomy" for my ears. A simple bass and treble filter would be nice. Stereo: If you're right in front of the camera, it sounds mono, but if you move around, you sure can hear the difference! But the software should have a mono setting, for those times when it's pointed at something besides your face (like, your hobby on the table), and you're talking beside the camera. Autofocus: The range is from about 1.4 to 14 inches, and everything beyond that is infinity. To get it to macro-focus, you have to move in slowly, and the object needs some detail, or it just loses it and goes back to infinity. Better turning it off and setting manually for the task at hand. But if you're talking within the 14 inches, the AF tracks pretty well and is reasonably fast. Face following: Because it's just moving the image around on the sensor, you have to be zoomed in some for it to work, and it only works in 360 and 480 modes. At most, it only "follows" for a few degrees of angle. Didn't try any of the "Effects" -- not my cup of tea. You cannot use them at 720 and 1080, only 360 and 480. Didn't try video phone or chat, so can't comment on that. Overall, I'm very impressed with the C920, and happy I made the purchase. And glad I didn't get the C910, because my computer won't handle raw 1080p. --kv5r
Top critical review
9 people found this helpful
Did not play well with Windows 10 or USB 3.0
By Microdev on Reviewed in the United States on August 6, 2015
The camera itself is very nice for a webcam. With a maximum resolution of 15 MP, it is one of the highest quality cameras you can buy in this price range. The resulting photo quality is quite sharp, and well balanced. The downloadable software (more on that below), allows for automatic focus and gain, or manual control. I suspect most people will use this for video. In that setting, the software controls are rather limited. There is an option to pan the image in the software, and zoom in or out. Depending on the capture resolution, the range of zoom is varied. For example, at full 1080p, the zoom range is small (10mm maybe?) and only one step. However, at 360p, the zoom levels are much more granular and offer 15 steps with a much greater zoom (75mm estimated). Speaking of resolutions, the video capture resolutions are 360p (wmv, 15 fps, 330 Kbps), 480p (wmv, 15 fps, 840 Kbps), 720p (mp4, 30 fps, 3000 Kbps), and full 1080p (mp4, 30 fps, 4000 Kbps). The software also offers an option to follow ones face. It works pretty well, tracking fairly slowly, but still tracking. This feature only works in 360p or 480p resolutions. The camera has a nice grippy articulating monitor mount, that is a triple fold. It basically folds out as shown in the pictures and allows a pivot at the camera mount point, the base (that the camera is attached to), and the arm which rests on the back of the monitor. There is a little rubber foot at the bottom which also folds out to fully rest against the monitor and prevent slipping. In addition, the articulating mount also has the ability to mount the camera a small tripod. The camera unit itself is only 3.5 x 1 x 0.9 inch in size, much smaller than the image portrays, and only weighs a few ounces. The non-removable USB cable is approximately 6 feet in length. Speaking of the software, and everything just described, none of it is included. The package basically contains a single sheet of paper with some pictures showing how to fold the arm, and plug in the USB port. Any small child could figure that out. The other 8 pages of paper are the usual regulatory and warranty pages which make for great reading! The test PC was a dual 16 core Xeon setup with dual GTX 970 video cards, and 64GB of RAM running Windows 10 Pro. The part of setup was exactly as the hieroglyphics described - plug the thing into a USB port. In this case, it was plugged into Sabrent Premium 7 Port Aluminum USB 3.0 Hub (powered). First stop, Windows 10 picture for the logon. Click on Camera under Create your picture, and up pops the video preview. The image actually moved for a second or two, then froze. Hmm, close the window and re-open. Now it's black. Hmm, reboot, and try again. Same exact thing. Okay, it must need updated drivers. Off to Logitech's website and 5 minutes later, the drivers are located and downloaded. Run the setup. Error - your system doesn't meet the minimum recommended specs. Really? A super high-end, state of the art workstation is below spec? Reboot again. Try the install again. This time it doesn't complain (that's consistent). Now there is a pretty Logitech Webcam icon on the desktop. Yeah! Run that - there's a moving image now! It froze again. Close and re-open. It's black again. There is a theme here... Lets bypass the hub. Same result. Let's try a USB 2.0 port. It works now! Too bad they didn't put all of that in the hieroglyphic sheet! But wait, there is no recorded sound. Hmm, another reboot and now Windows is complaining about additional security setup is required. Ugh, okay let's wait for another dialog to churn on checking for updates (there weren't any). That didn't help. Drill into Windows sound settings. The camera microphone is selected and enabled. The level is set to 50% - still not audio recorded to video. Cranking the level up to 90% seems to show sound activity. Back to the recording screen and try again. Success. Now let's review the masterpiece. Hmm, sounds like it was recorded in a coffin. Check the Logitech settings and yes, it is set to DVD quality (48 kHz). However, the microphone level is set to near zero. Guess what? The control is disabled. Now that it's working, run some more tests. Why isn't the zoom working? Clicking does nothing, why is facial tracking greyed out? A long story even longer, the GUI is terrible. Often, there is no indication why something is not working or is disabled. Eventually it can be figure out through trial and error but do I really want to spend 30-60 minutes trying to debug something that should work out of the box? If an IT person has to mess with to figure it out, what chance does someone's grandparents have? Okay enough, let's just get the facial logon in Windows working (one of the Amazon answered questions said it would work). What, what? Windows Hello isn't showing up in the logon options. Guess what? It is not capable of using Windows Hello. After researching this, it is apparent it wouldn't work, because it lacks the required infrared sensors that Windows 10 Hello facial recognition requires. In summary, the camera is good, the connection interface however, is not. The audio is terrible relative to the camera, and relative to any cheap PC microphone. The lack of software or even basic instructions for getting it working are glaring. The sheer amount of technical effort to get it to work reliably means it is not reliable. For nearly $100 retail, one would think that this camera should incorporate realsense so it would work with Windows 10 Hello. While the physical form factor is good, and the camera quality is good, it is a very unstable, and therefore a poor recommendation. One star for the form factor, and one star for the camera quality. I do not recommend this camera for anyone running Windows 10 (as of the time of this review). Perhaps software updates will address these issues but I encourage any prospective shopper to drop in on the Logitech support forums to see the myriad of other users complaining about the same problems.
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